PuppyPerfect: The User-Friendly Guide to Puppy Parenting

January 27, 2010 by Dog Lover  
Filed under Dog Training

  • ISBN13: 9780764587979
  • Condition: USED – GOOD
  • Notes:

Product Description
The book is user-friendly.

The approach is puppy-friendly!

Your puppy is so irresistible, cute, and lovable–until she chews your shoe, uproots your flowers, ruins your rug, demolishes your remote, or gobbles up your steaks.

Understanding your puppy’s unique personality, breed-specific traits, and temperament will help you tailor and implement proper, positive training techniques to save your sanity and your puppy! PuppyPerfect explains how to develop a nurturing and mutually respectful relationship with your puppy, which is the key to getting her to behave properly. You’ll get information on supplies you need for a puppy, proper feeding, healthcare, and more. You’ll… More >>

PuppyPerfect: The user-friendly guide to puppy parenting

Guide Dog Training

January 2, 2010 by Dog Lover  
Filed under Dog Training Videos

Caring for Your Puppy: A Guide to Preventive Health Care

December 26, 2009 by Dog Lover  
Filed under Dog Training

Product Description
Small manual/guide to raising a healthy puppy. Chapters include: Getting Ready for Your Puppy; Basic Training and Exercise; routine Exams; Common Diseases and Ailments; Parasite control; Clinical Nutrition; Grooming; Reproduction; First Aid; Suggested Reading; & Veterinarian Information…. More >>

Caring for Your Puppy: A Guide to Preventive Health Care

NYC DOG WALKERS Expert Guide to Dog Ownership and NYC Dog Walking

December 18, 2009 by Dog Lover  
Filed under Dog Training

By Paul Columbia, NYC Dog Walkers

http://www.nycdogwalkers.com

Big city Dog ownership is time consuming, expensive, requires advance planning and hiring a dog walking service.

Here we will help you with what to do, not do, what to expect and how to go about successfully meeting the challenges of dog ownership in an urban environment.

Get ready!

Successfully handling the challenges of dog ownership and dog walking in an urban environment like New York City are not easy but, make it work and the rewards are incalculable.

Finding and choosing your new puppy:

If you have already purchased your dog at a pet store, enjoy your new puppy and the new addition to your family.

If you are thinking about adding a new puppy to your family, purchase your puppy from a reputable dog breeder. Many pet stores obtain their puppies from puppy mills. Over breeding by puppy mills can cause genetic problems and in my experience, puppies from pet stores tend to have a lot of health issues. A money back guarantee won’t do you any good once you have fallen in love with your new puppy.

If you would prefer not to utilize the services of a breeder, make regular visits to your local ASPCA or animal shelter until you find the puppy or dog that is right for you and your family.

Choose a breed that fits your life style and expectations:

Do a search on the internet and identify which breed is right for you.

All dogs need exercise. Some breeds need more exercise than others.

For example: Large dogs that are in the hunting or working class categories need a lot of exercise.

Most behavioral issues (barking, destructive chewing etc.) are related to inactivity. 

Plan on walking your hunting/working class breed, yourself, at least 2 times per day for 60 minutes, with a minimum 30 minute walk from your dog walking service in the afternoon or 2 - 45 minute walks per day yourself and a good 60 minute walk in the afternoon by your dog walking service.

Note: It isn’t necessary to run with your dog, regardless of the breed. Nice, fast paced walks will provide your dog with plenty of exercise and are actually better for your dog than running. Running on hard surfaces is tough on the joints and can easily cause heat exhaustion in the summer. Take a moment to observe dogs off leash. They don’t run continuously. They run for 15 – 30 seconds, stop, sniff around, walk, sniff around, walk and then run again for 15 – 30 seconds.

Make an appointment with your veterinarian in advance of bringing your new puppy home.

Schedule your first visit within the first two days of bringing your pup home.

It is estimated that in NYC we are living with more than 10 rats for every human. Diseases found in the city are greater than those found in the suburbs. Start or continue with all of the vaccinations recommended by your veterinarian. Check with your Veterinarian to see when it will be safe to take your pup outside. Many Veterinarians will recommend keeping your pup in the apartment until you conclude the vaccination process. Other Veterinarians are ok with taking your pup outside providing your pup does not have contact with other dogs and of course are not allowed contact with other dogs eliminations.

Hiring a Dog Walking Service:

Before you make the decision to purchase you puppy call and speak with dog walking services. Dozens of dog walking services are listed on the internet. Ask to set up a meeting with your dog walker prior to your first walk.

Ask if they offer both private walks and semi-private group walks?

Do they have a maximum number of dogs allowed to walk in a group?

Verify that they never leave their dogs unattended outside while they are picking up additional dogs in the group.

All reputable dog walking services are bonded and insured.

Ask how frequently the service turns over personnel and do they check references and do background checks prior to hiring their walkers?

Will you have the same dog walker every day?

What is their plan if your dog walker is out sick or needs a day off?

What their cancellation policy?

Do they accept credit cards and how do they process the card transactions?

Do they have a direct, electronic link to the bank to process your transaction or do they use a third party service to process your credit card?

Which third party billing service do they use?

Do they handle puppies differently than they handle walks for mature dogs?

Do they take their dogs to the city’s dog runs?

Dog Runs and dogs off leash:

Pet insurance companies all make it very clear that their policies don’t cover dogs off leash and in dog runs. Insurance companies do risk assessment analysis and have found that most accidents happen off leash and in dog runs. The reason why dog runs are dangerous is because dog walking services walking dogs in large packs use dog runs as large unsupervised play pens in the mornings and afternoons, during the week. The best time to take your dog to a dog run and go off leash are on the weekends when dog owner are present.

Hiring a dog trainer:

Remember, a dog trainer is there to train you how to train your dog, not train your dog for you. Dog training is all about repetition and positive reinforcement of training issues.

Unless you have a very large breed or a breed with breed specific, protective and territorial issues, I advise clients to go to amazon.com, review the hundreds of dog training DVD’s for sale. Pick one that focuses on positive reinforcement of training issues and attempt to train your puppy yourself. A good video allows you to stop, rewind, fast forward and revisit training issues at you and your dogs own speed.

Remember, aggression and most behavioral issues coincide with inactivity. A happy, calm, well socialized, dog is a dog that gets a lot of exercise.

Training your dog to behave well in the city:

Unless you are planning on signing your pup up for a job in the circus, there are really only 7 commands your pup really needs to know and your pup really needs to know and respond to these commands. Keep the commands consistent and simple. Use one syllable words and use the same words to issue your commands all the time.

1. Come

2. Sit

3. Stay

4. OFF or Down (when jumping up on people)

5. Heel

6. No!

7. Drop it!

House breaking your pup – Crate Training and Crude Fiber:

Get your puppy a well ventilated wire crate with a plastic pan at the base and large enough to accommodate your pups growth for the first 6 months. It’s the fastest way to housebreak your pup. Place a soft old towel or two at the base of the crate.

First, you are not being unkind to your pup by crate training. Dogs are instinctively den animals and will quickly adapt to spending time during the day in a well ventilated wire crate. Never use the crate as a disciplinary tool. Always make spending time in the crate positive.

Crate training sets boundaries for your pup. It is nearly impossible for your puppy to understand that it is ok to eliminate on a wee-wee pad in the kitchen but not ok to eliminate in the hallway, living room or bedroom. Pups don’t want to eliminate where they sleep and realizing pups sleep most of the day, your pup will begin to exercise bladder and bowel control while in the crate.

Second, before the age of 12 – 16 weeks your pup has little to no control over eliminating (think in terms of an infant). Depending on your work schedule, make sure you schedule your dog walking service to take your puppy for walks in 4 hour intervals. Unless your pup has health issues, visits in intervals shorter than 3 – 4 hours are not necessary. Your pup will be maturing quickly physically and sleeping most of the day.

By the time your puppy is 6 – 7 months old your pup will have developed better bladder control, can transition out of the crate and to one good walk in the afternoon.

Crude Fiber: 

Make sure to check the crude fiber content on your pups dog food bag. Crude fiber is a natural laxative. Too much fiber and your pup will be eliminating throughout the day.

Too little fiber and your pup will be constipated.

Pick up after your dog:

Start saving your plastic bags and bring two or three bags with you on every walk. Reusing plastic bags is good for the environment and picking up after your dog is essential dog walking etiquette in NYC.

One of The Beatles!

Getting a puppy isn’t easy. It is expensive. There is a tremendous amount of preplanning and work involved. On the other hand the joys of dog ownership are incalculable. The relationship you will have with your dog will be one of unconditional love.

When I get home at the end of the day, regardless of how the day has been or the mood I am in, I open the door and there is Tino, my Yellow Labrador. His tail is wagging and he greets me like I’m one of The Beatles!

Dog Training DVD Guide: Use a Dog Training DVD to Stop Your Dog’s Barking

December 15, 2009 by Dog Lover  
Filed under Stop Dog From Barking


Does your dog bark excessively? Do they bark only when you are away, or do they bark when you are at home too? Most dogs bark because they are bored. We lavish them with so much attention that they do not know how to act when we are not around or when we are no longer giving them the attention they think they deserve. If you are tired of complaining neighbors, or just tired of the constant barking when you are at home, a dog training DVD could be just what you are looking for. If your dog is well-fed, warm, has plenty of water, and is not being frightened by anything, they are barking because they want your attention. Of course, you would want your dog to bark if they sense danger or are trying to protect you. A dog needs to understand when to bark and when to be quiet, and it is your job to teach them the difference. A dog training DVD will run you through the reasons why dogs bark and how to prevent and stop excessive barking. If you plan to purchase one of these, you can search the internet for a good DVD. Purchase one that is done by a professional dog trainer, or someone who can prove to you (through testimonials) that they know what they are talking about. Before you make a decision ask yourself a few questions. Does the dog training DVD include information about why your dog may be barking excessively? Does it offer a complete breakdown of the process of training your dog to stop unnecessary barking? Will it help you to understand why and how the procedures they use work? Does it include dealing with a dog that barks not only while you are away, but also while you are at home?A dog training DVD to stop your dog’s barking will be well worth the small investment. Once trained properly, both dog and owner will be much happier, and will be better able to enjoy their time spent together!

Guide to Crate Training a New Dog or Young Puppy

December 13, 2009 by Dog Lover  
Filed under Dog Training


Crate training is one of the best possible things that you can do for your puppy. Not only will the puppy be easier to housetrain but overall you will have a happier, more secure dog that has his or her own place to sleep and stay both when you are home and when you are away. Crate training is also an asset when you plan to travel with your dog or puppy. Crate training keeps the animal calm on airplanes and also keeps you pet safe when driving. Crates can be attached to seats by seatbelts and harnesses similar to how children’s car seats are fastened into the car. Just like car seats they prevent injury to the dog in the case of a sudden stop or an accident.
Crate training does not happen overnight, and does require both work and attention by the owner. Crate training should never be used as a punishment for a mistake or a bad behavior, or the dog or puppy will see the crate as a bad place and this will defeat the whole purpose of the training. To start the crate training in the most positive way start very slowly and only progress at the rate the puppy is comfortable with.
Picking The Right Size Crate
Depending on how large your puppy will get it will usually make sense to buy the size that will fit the full sized dog rather than having to buy multiple crates as your puppy grows. It is important, however, if the puppy is small and the crate is larger that you limit the space in the crate for the small puppy or he or she will simply use one end for the bathroom and one end as the “den”. To make a large crate smaller a mesh screen or piece of wood can be used and then slide to give more room as the puppy matures. When necessary it can be completely removed to give the older dog full use of the crate area.
The idea size of crate, or crate area, is about the length of the dog when it is down, paws extended. Most crates come in standard widths that will allow small dogs to really stretch out but may require larger dogs to sleep in a coiled position. Dogs should be able to stand up comfortably in the crate without the top of the crate pressing on their head or shoulders.
Giant or very large breeds of dogs will generally outgrow most commercial crates before they completely mature. Some specially made crates for large breeds are available on the internet and through breed associations or even pet stores.
Getting Started
Getting started means just familiarizing the puppy with the crate. Make sure the crate is the correct size and that there is comfortable bedding in the crate. Start by sitting with the puppy in front of the open crate. Place a treat, with the puppy seeing the placement, into the very front of the crate. When the puppy reaches in to get the treat say “Crate” and the puppy’s name, just once. Allow the puppy to take the treat out of the crate, and do not close the door. Do not try to keep the puppy in the crate longer and make no comment when the puppy exits the crate. Next time repeat the process putting the treat in far enough the puppy must step in completely. Again, when approaching the crate say “Crate” and the puppy’s name, and then say “Good Dog” and the puppy’s name when they are in the crate. Allow them to exit when they want and ignore the exiting behavior.
Gradually feed a few treats through the side of the crate to encourage the puppy to stay. Always allow him or her to exit when they want, but only praise the going in behavior, never the coming out!
Within a few days the puppy will be comfortable in the crate for a few minutes. Try closing the door but only for a minute at a time, staying right beside the crate. With the puppy’s comfort level leave the crate door closed for longer periods and begin to move away for a few seconds, gradually lengthening the time.
Never return and open the crate when the puppy starts to whine or bark, as this will encourage this behavior. Wait until the puppy is quiet before taking him or her out of the crate. Never leave a puppy in the crate for more than 2 to 4 hours at a time, especially when they are small and are not yet housetrained.

Dog Crate Buying Guide

December 12, 2009 by Dog Lover  
Filed under Dog Training


Dog Crate training is one of the best possible things that you can do for your puppy. Not only will the puppy be easier to housetrain but overall you will have a happier, more secure dog that has his or her own place to sleep and stay both when you are home and when you are away. Crate training is also an asset when you plan to travel with your dog or puppy. Crate training keeps the animal calm on airplanes and also keeps you pet safe when driving. Crates can be attached to seats by seatbelts and harnesses similar to how children’s car seats are fastened into the car. Just like car seats they prevent injury to the dog in the case of a sudden stop or an accident. Crate training does not happen overnight, and does require both work and attention by the owner. Crate training should never be used as a punishment for a mistake or a bad behavior, or the dog or puppy will see the crate as a bad place and this will defeat the whole purpose of the training. To start the crate training in the most positive way start very slowly and only progress at the rate the puppy is comfortable with. Picking The Right Size Dog CrateDepending on how large your puppy will get it will usually make sense to buy the size that will fit the full sized dog rather than having to buy multiple crates as your puppy grows. It is important, however, if the puppy is small and the crate is larger that you limit the space in the crate for the small puppy or he or she will simply use one end for the bathroom and one end as the “den”. To make a large crate smaller a mesh screen or piece of wood can be used and then slide to give more room as the puppy matures. When necessary it can be completely removed to give the older dog full use of the crate area. The idea size of crate, or crate area, is about the length of the dog when it is down, paws extended. Most crates come in standard widths that will allow small dogs to really stretch out but may require larger dogs to sleep in a coiled position. Dogs should be able to stand up comfortably in the crate without the top of the crate pressing on their head or shoulders. Giant or very large breeds of dogs will generally outgrow most commercial crates before they completely mature. Some specially made crates for large breeds are available on the internet and through breed associations or even pet stores. Getting StartedGetting started means just familiarizing the puppy with the crate. Make sure the crate is the correct size and that there is comfortable bedding in the crate. Start by sitting with the puppy in front of the open crate. Place a treat, with the puppy seeing the placement, into the very front of the crate. When the puppy reaches in to get the treat say “Crate” and the puppy’s name, just once. Allow the puppy to take the treat out of the crate, and do not close the door. Do not try to keep the puppy in the crate longer and make no comment when the puppy exits the crate. Next time repeat the process putting the treat in far enough the puppy must step in completely. Again, when approaching the crate say “Crate” and the puppy’s name, and then say “Good Dog” and the puppy’s name when they are in the crate. Allow them to exit when they want and ignore the exiting behavior. Gradually feed a few treats through the side of the crate to encourage the puppy to stay. Always allow him or her to exit when they want, but only praise the going in behavior, never the coming out!Within a few days the puppy will be comfortable in the crate for a few minutes. Try closing the door but only for a minute at a time, staying right beside the crate. With the puppy’s comfort level leave the dog crate door closed for longer periods and begin to move away for a few seconds, gradually lengthening the time. Never return and open the crate when the puppy starts to whine or bark, as this will encourage this behavior. Wait until the puppy is quiet before taking him or her out of the crate. Never leave a puppy in the crate for more than 2 to 4 hours at a time, especially when they are small and are not yet housetrained.

Down Boy! Blast You – Guide to Stop Problem Dog Behavior

December 3, 2009 by Dog Lover  
Filed under Dog Training


Does your dog have behavior problems that you want to stop?  Read these 7 tips and you will find ways to to stop your problem dog behavior. 1) A tired dog is a good dog.   Does your dog get enough exercise?  Try walking your dog or playing more than you do now.   Some experts think that you ought to take about 90 minutes per day exercising and playing with your dog. 2) Has your dog learned to connect a bad behavior with some everyday events, like unnecessary barking when people come to the door, or jumping on people?  It could be that your dog is frightened about people at the door or connects getting attention by jumping on people.   Try to determine the reason your dog is behaving like this and then you can work on a remedy. 3) Chewing. Does your dog chew things when you are away?  Dogs use their mouths much like we use our hands.   They utilize their mouths to discover what something feels like or how it tastes.   Dogs absolutely like objects that have your scent on them.   Try to put these things away so that they are not easy for your dog to get at. 4) Aggression. Your dog growls, snaps or lunges at other dogs.   Once again, is there some reason that your dog is doing this?  It is difficult to train your dog to not act this way, but you should try to teach your dog to do something else when you see that there will be a problem.   Can you find a location where there is a barrior like a fence  between your dog and the threatening object (the other dogs)? Then there will be no contact while you train your dog a different way of behaving. Your dog may also have a medical problem, he/she might not feel good or could even be in pain.   Have your vet look at the dog just in case. 5) Excessive Barking. What is stimulating your dog to bark?  To deal with this problem you must understand the dog.   Once you have found the cause, try to eliminate theproblem from the dog’s environment.   You should be able to use the “wait and reward when they stop”method , the squirt gun method or wrap your hands around his/her snout and give a soft shhh command.   These methods will only be effective through repetition. 6) Dog ignores you.   The dog may think that something bad is about to happen, “paidattention last time and nothing good came of it”. 7) Pulling on the lead – the choke collar method is not as effective as using a head harness collar.   This is placed around the dog’s nose and neck and the leash is attached under the chin.   This operates more like a horses bridle and gives the handler added control.

In all of these situations, when you praise your dog, overstate your positive feelings. Let your dog really know that you are pleased. Use a positive, happy, excited tone of voice to reinforce your dog’s behavior.   Try physical encounter also, get down and open your arms.   These tips will get you started clearing up your issues, but it is crucial to get a more detailed program or system to give you expert advice.  

Dogs: Excessive Barking, an Owner’s Guide

November 25, 2009 by Dog Lover  
Filed under Dog Training


Most frequent causes

In most cases, excessive barking is quickly and easily managed.   Dogs can unlearn this behavior and learn new, more appropriate behaviors.   For example, your dog trainer can teach your dog the “quiet” command.   This allows the dog to issue the warning that is innate in him, and allows you to decide when it’s time to stop barking.   Once learned, virtually all dogs stop excessive barking on their own, minimizing the amount of time you’ll actually have to use the “quiet” cue.  

Dogs that are barking from boredom or frustration can also be helped, providing that they start getting their emotional and exercise needs met.   Your dog trainer can show you fast and effective ways to provide these critical components for your pet.   A happy dog is content and does not need to bark excessively and this creates happy dog’1 owners.

Insecure dogs are best managed by distraction while they are learning to cope with new things in their environment.   These dogs typically require socialization as well and your dog trainer will work with you to create a plan best suited for your insecure dog.

The goal of all dog training is to find peaceable solutions to everyday problems so that pets and their owners live harmoniously.

The Beginner’s Guide to Dog Agility

November 24, 2009 by Dog Lover  
Filed under Dog Training

  • ISBN13: 9780793805464
  • Condition: NEW
  • Notes: Brand New from Publisher. No Remainder Mark.

Product Description
Digging holes in the backyard, chewing a hole in your favorite sock, running laps in the kitchen—dogs are always on the move. Why not channel some of that indefatigable energy into a hobby that can be fun for both you and your furry friend? Training your dog (and yourself) for agility competitions will create a fun working relationship that both of you can enjoy. Find everything you need to know in this fun guide that includes information on pre-agility training, detailed advice on correction-free training, and step-by-step agility training techniques. Also learn how to make your own agility obstacles, use a clicker as a motivational tool, and officially enter agility trials. Participating in agility co… More >>

The Beginner’s Guide to Dog Agility

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